HomeIt leaks
Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
* Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It’s located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it’s made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
* The tube -There’s a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
* Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub–but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
* Hot and cold water fill hoses – Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
* Main tub seal – The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It’s the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine’s main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
* Pump – If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
* Outer tub – Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub–but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
It’s slow to fill
Check to see if there’s good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they’re clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.
The clothes are wet after spinning
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
* If it’s spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
* If it isn’t spinning–and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®–you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn’t reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the “It spins but won’t pump” section of the “It won’t drain” section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn’t reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub–you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven’t used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
It’s overfilling
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve
A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it’s no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch
A defect–or an obstruction–in the water-level switch may mean that it can’t tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It’s usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer’s outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It’s underfilling
The water-level switch regulates your washer’s fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer’s outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
